My next stop, after Valladolid and Chichen Itza, was Tulum. With two weeks of my trip left (yikes! Where’s the time gone?!), I was looking to relax in the sunshine. I can’t believe I’m saying this – I don’t feel the need to see more and cram more places in!
So Tulum for me was all about the beach, sunshine, cenotes and chill! And that’s what I did for a week and a half! I also visited the ruins and did a Temazcal ceremony which was hot and sweaty! Read on for more…
Went to the beach
Beach time! With two weeks left, my plan was simply to relax on a beach. Tulum beach surprised me! I didn’t expect it to be so nice. White sand, palm trees and turquoise water! A very easy place to spend my days!
Good to know: Tulum beach is split into public and private. The public part is closer to Tulum town (20/30 minute cycle) and the private beach is where the fancy hotels and beach clubs are. In theory you’re allowed on the private beach but access can be tricky as you often need to pass through the hotel or beach club. And then there’s the expectation you’re going to buy something. I went to the public beach, to Pocna, and really liked it! Also the public beach still has some hotels and beach clubs, it just has easier public access.
Cenotes
The Yucatan peninsula is known for its cenotes, there’s over 6000 of them! There are loads of them around the Tulum area. I went to four of them: Corazón, Calavera, Gran and Carwash.
Cenote Corazón
Cenote Corazón was my first cenote in Tulum and I went with a group from my hostel (there’s usually a daily cenote visit run by a hostel volunteer).
It’s an open lagoon cenote and the water is amazingly clear! It’s also one of the lesser known ones and was very quiet when we were there. We were one of the firsts to arrive at around 11am. I really liked it!
Fun fact: Corazón means heart in Spanish and the cenote gets its name because from above its shaped like a heart!
Two American women arrived a little after with us with what looked liked a personal photographer for the day. Just as we were leaving, one of them changed into a full length baby blue prom dress and went in the water for some underwater shots. Very random! Taking photos to the next level!
Entrance: 150 pesos
Where: Along the road towards Bacalar, around 7km from town. It takes about half an hour to cycle.
Cenote Calavera
We went to Cenote Calavera after the ruins one morning. We arrived around 11am and there were a good number of people already there. Calavera has a cave section so quite a few were diving.
It’s not an open cenote. The easiest way to get in is to jump! I went for the ladder at first. I had just dried off and we were going to leave but I decided I couldn’t without jumping.
So I jumped and it really wasn’t as high a leap as I thought! It was fun and I did it again! You could also jump in the cenote through two smaller holes. I couldn’t do them, the rocks were too close and I didn’t feel like there was enough space.
Note: The cenote was still in the shade when we were there. For sunshine on the water, I reckon go after lunchtime.
Entrance: 100 pesos
Where: Along the road to the Coba ruins. It’s 3km from town and approx a 15 minute cycle.
Tip: Tulum is really cyclable. Biking to cenotes and the beach is totally doable. I recommend renting a bike or even better staying somewhere which has them available. One of the reasons why I stayed at Lum Hostel was for the free bikes! So useful!
Gran Cenote
Gran cenote is the most popular cenote in Tulum. It has a few caves you can swim through and small turtles!!
Because it’s so popular, it can feel crowded here. I arrived early, for opening at 8.10am and there was only maybe seven of us. A tour group did arrive ten minutes later! Even with them there it wasn’t as crowded as I’d expected and they left soon so it was back to being quieter. I can imagine later in the morning or at a weekend it’ll be busier.
Entrance: 200 pesos (I know expensive!)
Opening hours: 8.10am-4.45pm (last entrance at 4.15pm)
Where: Along the road to the Coba ruins. 2km further along from Cenote Calavera. It’s 5km from town and takes 20/30 minutes on a bike.
Cenote Carwash
Cenote Carwash was my second cenote of the day. We cycled there after Gran Cenote. It’s very much an open cenote and pretty deep. I loved how clear the water was!
There’s a wooden board you can jump from. It felt very high and I almost chickened out. I jumped!!! Footage might even be on a gro pro somewhere!
Fun fact: Drivers used to stop by the cenote to wash their cars – that’s why it’s called carwash!
Good to know: Wearing suncream and insect repellent isn’t allowed – to protect the water from chemicals. You have to shower before entering the water and, at this particular cenote there was even a special soap to use as well. Not wearing suncream or insect repelling is good practice for all cenotes!
Entrance: 50 pesos
Where: Along the road to the Coca ruins. It’s 4km further on from Gran Cenote. From the centre of town, it’s a 9km cycle – around 30/40 minutes.
Side note: I went to Gran Cenote and Carwash the same day. A lot lot lot of cycling – 25km! From town, to the cenotes, to the beach and then back to town on what felt like the slowest bike ever! The back wheel and the chain seemed to stick – it was like cycling in maple syrup! A serious leg work out!
Tulum Ruins
Tulum’s ruins sit on the cliff and overlook the sea. I’ve seen many ruins on this trip, but none next to the sea. It’s a beautiful location!
Visiting the ruins is one of the top things to do in Tulum, so there will be people and tour groups! My advice would be to go early in the morning or late afternoon. We arrived just after 9am and it was fine. Yes, there were tour groups but the ruins never felt congested. We were all spread out!
Entrance: 75 pesos
Opening hours: 8am-4.30pm
If you’d like to see more ruins, Coba is nearby (a 45 minute drive away). You rent bikes to explore the temples and can even watch the sunset from the top of a temple (you’d need a car to stay later as buses stop running). Entrance is 75 pesos and goes up to 250 pesos for sunset (the park is technically closed).
Temazcal
I’d heard about Temazcal on my way through Mexico. My understanding was it was a Mayan ceremony in a hut with hot hot rocks and a lot of sweating.
My friend told me I could do it in Tulum. I’m not great in saunas or steam rooms, but I was keen to have a go.
I turned up to Delek Tulum at 5pm. My cycle there involved the chain coming off twice. The second time it caught on the wheel frame so I couldn’t put it back on. I passed a local man and asked for directions to the hotel. He got his tools out the car and fixed my chain which was lovely. I made it just in time!
Note: When I messaged the hotel on Facebook, they suggested I arrive before 5pm as places are limited. Due to my bike incident, I arrived just on time and luckily there was still space. Although not much. I’d say 9-10 people is the maximum – the hut can’t fit more people inside. A friend did it a few days after and there was 14 of them – so they do squeeze!
We had some passion fruit juice to start and then circled the fire. In our left hand, the shaman sprinkled tabaco. We then had to think what we wished to ask the gods for and then throw the tabaco into the flames.
Once we’d all done that, we entered the hut. We were going to do four rounds, one for each of the elements. Earth was our bodies, water our blood, air our breath and fire our spirits. More rocks were added at the start of each round and it got progressively hotter.
I was slightly nervous about being in a small hut with heat and steam. I was worried about not being able to manage it and having to leave.
Wow was it a sweaty experience! I was dripping! After the second round, I wasn’t sure I could go hotter. With the break between the rounds, I recovered and stayed in for the third round which was hotter again but shorter and ended with the shaman splashing us with water – surprise!
The heat was really intense. This sounds silly, but I felt a bit like a dragon. My skin was super hot to touch and my exhales were pushing out just as hot air. No more rocks were added for the last round, which happened very quickly after the third, and mainly involved us chanting and saying thanks. My skin was very tingly at this point!
We exited the hut slowly, one by one into the fresh air outside and went for a dip in the sea in the fading light. It was wonderful! Back outside the hut, we ate some fruit and ice cold water. It was great! I felt much lighter and was very happy I stayed in for the whole ceremony! It was certainly an experience!
When: Wednesdays and Sundays at 5pm
Where: Delek Tulum along the beach hotel strip
Cost: Donation based
Food
Tulum has plenty of restaurants and places to eat to choose from, whether you’re after Mexican or more international fare. Given Tulum is Tulum and geared more towards tourism, I was partly expecting to have to cook a few times.
Surprisingly I discovered there’s lots of affordable and good food options – restaurants and street food stalls – and I didn’t cook once. Here’s a few of my top ones…
Street Burrito
Looking for burritos, look no further! It’s set up next to the other street food stalls down Calle Osiris Sur and has ironing boards for tables. The burritos are delicious. I ordered a pork one which came with rice, beans, cheese and vegetables for 80 pesos (£3 approx!).
I also ate at Burrito Amor, another recommended burrito place, and I’d say Street Burrito is better and cheaper!
Where: It’s on the corner two blocks from the main road on Calle Osiris Sur, the road next to the main square. It’s the road with lots of other street food.
Sabor de Mar
Go here for fish and seafood. The name of the restaurant translates as “Taste of the Sea”.
I ordered a shrimp tostada and it was very yum! At first I thought it wouldn’t be enough but it sure filled me up. There were lots of sauces to try and they brought out a bowl of more tostadas.
Where: Almost on the corner, one block up from the main square, pass the ADO bus station on the other side of the main road.
Antojitos La Chiapaneca
Tasty traditional Mexican! It’s a popular spot, all tables were full when I was there! I can see why! Tacos, gringas, salbutes, tortas…so much choice and I’m still struggling with knowing the difference between them. They’re all slightly different variations of tacos and always with tortillas. Very yum!
Where: Two blocks up from the main square on the corner. You’ll pass the ADO bus station on your right. It’s an orange building and usually very busy!
Price: 10-20 pesos per taco, gringa, salbute…
Manglar
Manglar is one of the many Italians in Tulum. It’s great if you’re looking for a break from Mexican food.
Because it’s not on the main strip of restaurant, prices are lower. We got an amazing margherita pizza for 130 pesos and a creamy blue cheese pasta for 110 pesos. Very decent and the pizza was fab! It’s a pizzeria for a reason!
Where: A 15 minute walk up from the main square on Calle 16 Sur. I cycled both times I went.
Bateys
Go to Bateys bar for mojitos!!! They make really good ones with freshly squeezed sugar cane! My go to is the watermelon mojito!! So so good – the classic mojito flavour is still the stand out taste with a hint of watermelon. I’ve been back twice! There’s also live music every night and a nice atmosphere.
I went one evening with a lovely English couple, Kerry and Luke, who I’d just met at the street burrito place. It was great and I loved the spontaneity!
Cost: 100 pesos (£4 approx) for a mojito.
How to get to Tulum
Like the rest of the Yucatan peninsula, Tulum is well connected by ADO buses. It’s an hour bus journey from Playa del Carmen, 3hrs from Cancun, 2hrs from Bacalar, 1hr30 from Valladolid and 4hrs from Merida. You’re not looking at long journeys!
If you’re not yet in Yucatan, Palenque in the Chiapas region is a popular spot to arrive from. The journey is around 8hrs. A night bus would save a travel day!
Where I stayed
For the duration of my stay (yes it did end up being a week and a half), I stayed in Lum Hostel. It was recommended by a lot of fellow backpackers – I do like word of mouth recommendations.
It is slightly pricier than other hostels there at around £13 a night but I thought it was well worth it. Good location in town, clean, good showers, really nice atmosphere, social and the big winner free bikes!
I loved loved the free bikes! Tulum is such a cyclable town. Tulum beach isn’t within walking distance of Tulum town. Not in the slightest. To go to the beach it’s either take a colectivo (or taxi) or cycle. There are plenty of cycle lanes which makes cycling to the beach a no brainer – at least for me it was!
Bike rentals in Tulum are around 80-100 pesos a day. When you knock that off the nightly price for the hostel, it’s almost the same as the other hostels.
Final thoughts
Tulum for me was all about relaxing, going to the beach, sunshine, seeing the odd cenote and eating nice food. And my one and a half weeks was just that! Crazy I stayed that long – it’s so easy to! Ticked so many boxes for me and I loved that I could cycle everywhere!
I can easily see why people get stuck in Tulum. There’s a really nice atmosphere, it’s not overrun with tourists, the beach is great, as are the cenotes and the cycling culture is amazing!
I had planned to visit somewhere else along the coast, but ended up staying in Tulum. There was no reason to leave. I’d found a routine there…catching up with my blog in the mornings, cycling to the beach around lunch time and going for dinner with hostel friends in the evening. Having not had a routine for so long, it felt nice to have a small one (even if it was just my daily cycle to and from the beach!).
I enjoyed the ruins and really liked their cliff location. The cenotes were also lovely! Cenote Corazón had seriously clear water! And I’m very happy I did a Tezmacal ceremony. A very hot and sweaty experience, so different to anything I’ve done. If you’re in Tulum, I recommend doing one!
I’m now going to Holbox island – my last stop in Mexico and of my trip! It’s all a mix of emotions and feelings right now!
