Valladolid…pueblo magico, cenote central and close to Chichen Itza.
I stayed in Valladolid for three nights where I spent my time biking to cenotes and visiting Chichen Itza (yep I finally decided to go!).
This post is more about cenotes and Valladolid (where I ate!). I’ve written a separate post about Chichen Itza which you can read about here!
Over two and a half days I visited five cenotes: Cenote Oxman, Samula, Xkeken, Suytan and Zaci. Aside from Zaci which is in town, I reached the other four cenotes by bike. I really enjoyed the freedom which came with cycling and it was also nice to get some exercise! I rented bikes from my hostel, Hostal La Candelaria, for 20 pesos an hour/100 pesos a day. I’d say it was worth it!
Cenote Oxman
Oxman was the first cenote I went to in Valladolid and in Yucatan. It was the one recommended by my hostel and I cycled there with a girl from my hostel.
Although it’s an open cenote, you need to go down some stairs to get in the water. The water was very refreshing after the cycle! Someone told me it was over 40m deep which is crazy! My active imagination kept thinking something was going to shoot up from the depths! Don’t worry – I lived to tell the tale!
Distance from town: 5km = 20 minute cycle.
Entrance: 80 pesos for cenote only or 150 pesos for food at restaurant and swimming pool. By paying 150 pesos, you’re effectively getting the cenote for free. We went for the second option and at first, I was peeved we’d paid 150 pesos – didn’t feel like a good deal and I couldn’t see myself staying there all day. However, we were able to come back at any point in the day for food so we explored two other cenotes and returned for a late lunch – the nachos were yum!! In the end, I was happy with the deal!
Cenote Samula and Xkeken
These two are both underground cave cenotes and are right next to each other. They share the same parking lot!
I hadn’t been to an underground cenote yet so I found these two with stalagtites pretty cool! We went for another dip in both!
Entrance: 80 pesos to visit one, or 120 pesos for both. You can also combine with a lunch deal (although I’d recommend Oxman if you’re looking for a cenote and lunch).
Cenote Suytun
Suytun is another one of Valladolid’s underground cave cenotes. It’s become a popular photo spot since the owners have built a stone platform leading into the water. I’ve got to admit it makes for good photos!
Stalagtites, a platform and if you’re there around midday a beam of light will shine through the hole in the roof. It’s pretty cool!
I’d recommend it as a cenote for photos, less so for swimming. If you’re looking for a swim the other four are better!
You also don’t want to visit when there’s a crowd – there’ll be lots of waiting! I’ve heard tour buses get there around 11am so either first thing in the morning or later in the afternoon is best. We arrived around 3pm and there were probably ten of us in total inside which was fine.
If you’re after the beam of light shot, you’ll need to arrive around lunchtime/early afternoon. I’m not sure how busy it gets but have heard from a few people it’s ok as the tour groups all go for lunch.
Distance from town: 7km = 30 minute cycle
Entrance: 120 pesos
Cenote Zaci
Last but not least is Zaci, the cenote in the centre of town. I’d walked past it several times and only on my last morning did I go for a quick swim before my bus to Tulum.
It’s the most open of the cenotes I went to and I really liked it. Again, very refreshing water – a cenote trait!
Entrance: 30 pesos
Valladolid Light Show
On my first night, I went to the convent to watch a short animated video, about the history of Valladolid, projected on its walls. I thought it was a cool idea, especially projecting it on the walls of the convent which has witnessed a lot in Valladolid’s history. It’s been burnt down twice in conflicts!
Where: San Bernardino convent.
Time: 9pm in Spanish, 9.20pm in English.
Days: Wednesday-Sunday, every day in holiday season.
Food
Nena Nena
I ate at Nena Nena’s twice and really liked the food and atmosphere. It’s set up in, what feels like, a converted garage and offers around five dishes to choose from. Prices are usually under 50 pesos per dish and you could order one or two depending on hunger levels.
Loncheria El Amigo Casiano
It’s a local and cheap eatery in the food court just off the main plaza. You’ll know you’ve found it when you see the busy tables. It’s the busiest eatery in the food court and for good reason! You can get tacos, salbutes, panuchos or a bigger lunch meal. It’s only open for lunch and in the afternoon.
Wabi
Go here for icecream!! We managed to get the last scoops before closing and heck was it good! The shop felt quite fancy, and only had a few flavours of the day to choose from – two gelato and two sorbet. Prices were similar to other places around town. I think there’s a main shop which has more flavours!
I went for chocolate and it was so so yum – chocolatey and smooth! I recommend!
How to get to Valladolid
Like most places on the Yucatan peninsula, Valladolid is easy to get to by ADO buses. It’s around a 2hr bus from Merida, 1hr30 from Tulum and 2hrs from Cancun. It’s great – long bus journeys are no longer a thing!
Aside from ADO buses, you can also take second class buses or sometimes colectivos. From Merida, there were colectivos going to Valladolid for 120 pesos and they left when full. I took the bus because it was only 30 pesos more and I knew there’d be room for my big bag!
Final thoughts
Valladolid is a quiet town with not huge amounts to do (aside from cenotes). Yet, I liked it! The main plaza and Calle de los Frailes were nice to spend time, I ate good food and ice cream, explored some cool cenotes and went to Chichen Itza.
I found the underground cenotes with hanging stalagtites and the occasional light beam cool – hadn’t seen that before! My favourite ones were the more open ones so Oxman and Zaci. Still, visit both open and underground – both types are cool in their own way!
The coolest cenote for pictures is Suytun, which at the same time makes it the worst for swimming as you don’t want to end up in peoples’ photos. You also don’t want to visit when there’s a crowd – there’ll be lots of waiting!
I’m into my last two weeks now and my next stop is Tulum and the beach. I plan to chill there for a bit before going to Holbox. I never thought I’d say I’ve seen enough but I have (weird!); I’m now very happy enjoying the sunshine, beaches and odd cenote before flying home to wintery England!
