After nearly a week on Caye Caulker, it was time to leave Central America and enter Mexico, my last country of the trip – yikes!
Ever since I’d heard about the turquoise crystal clear waters of Laguna Bacalar on my way through Central, I was super keen to go! It’s known as the lake of seven colours due to its waters varying shades and tones – crystal clear, turquoise, blue, deep blue…!
Given its proximity to Chetumal and the Mexican/Belizean border, it made a lot of sense for Bacalar to be my first stop in Mexico. What a good first stop it was – I loved it!
I spent four nights in Bacalar, here’s what I got up to…
Spent the day at Cocalitos
Cocalitos is a great spot to spend a day enjoying Bacalar’s turquoise waters. The water is incredibly clear and we spent ages in it! There was no rush to get out!
There’s also plenty of space on the grass to sit, and shade to take a break from the sun. There is a mini restaurant which sells nachos and guacamole. I can vouch for the guacamole! It would also be a great spot for a picnic so you could take your own supplies!
Getting there: It’s about an hour walk, half an hour cycle or 10min taxi ride from town. We didn’t fancy walking in the heat at midday and paid 50 pesos (£2) for a taxi. It was cheaper than we’d been told which was great.
Entrance: 35 pesos (£1.40 approx)
Sunrise paddle board
The sunrise paddle board had been recommended by several people I’d met in Central America and it was for sure a Bacalar highlight!
I booked through my hostel with Whatsup Paddle. We met at 5.40am (early!) and left just after 6am. When my alarm went off at 5.30am, I really wasn’t feeling it. I’m super glad I’d already paid as it pushed me to go.
We were out for around 3hrs and visited two spots: Black Cenote and Pirates Channel.
This was my third time paddle boarding and I was slightly nervous about standing up as I hadn’t been able to on Lake Atitlán! There were virtually no waves which was a win for me and I stood up pretty easily!
I loved it! It was really nice to be on the water so early and the sunrise was lovely! I had been preparing myself not to see a sunrise because of the clouds but we got lucky!
Cost: 450 pesos (£20 approx). It’s not the cheapest activity but well worth it!
Rent a bike – Cenote Azul and Los Rapidos
After the sunrise paddle board, we returned to the hostel for breakfast. I’d met Alicia, a fellow Brit, on the tour and she was planning on renting a bike for the day. I decided to join her and together we planned to go to Cenote Azul and Los Rapidos (a narrow channel off the lake where you can float down with the current).
We rented bikes from Alicia’s hostel for 100 pesos (£4 approx) and set off mid-morning. Interestingly the bikes didn’t have the traditional brakes on the handlebars. We found out that to slow down or stop, we had to pedal backward! I still automatically would look for the brakes.
Our first stop was Cenote Azul, which is near Cocalitos. We paid 25 pesos to swim in the Cenote. After a sweaty cycle, it was very refreshing! Unlike Cocalitos, there’s not a place to chill out the water (aside from the seated restaurant) so I don’t think you need much time there.
From Cenote Azul, we wanted to cycle to Los Rapidos. We didn’t realise that getting to Los Rapidos involved a cycle along the motorway/highway. We eventually decided to go for it applying the logic that we could always turn back if we didn’t like it or feel safe.
It actually went well and both of us were happy cycling along in the hard shoulder. Of course, it wasn’t to be a smooth journey and the chain came off Alicia’s bike. Classic! We managed to get it back on (proud!) and arrived to los Rapidos not long after. I was surprised that no one stopped to offer help!
Los Rapidos was fun and I’m glad we went! We entered the water one end and the current takes you down to the other.
I could have stayed longer; however, we had a sunset kayak to get to for 4.30pm back at the hostel. It was a busy day! I now refer to it as our Bacalar triathlon: sunrise paddle, cycle and sunset kayak.
Entrance cost: 100 pesos (£4 approx)
Thinking we’d left ourselves enough time to get back, we started cycling back. The first hitch in our timing was when the chain came off Alicia’s bike for a second time. Like the new pros we were, we had it back on much quicker than the first time and were back on the road.
Not five minutes later, the chain was off for a third time. We couldn’t believe it and at this point, our ability to make it back in time was dwindling fast. Our sunset kayak wasn’t looking likely!
In a bid to make it back, we tried hitchhiking. At first, our odds didn’t look good. Then, surprisingly a 4×4 with a trailer pulled over and picked us up. With our bikes on the wooden trailer and us sat in the boot, we quickly got back to Bacalar.
It was amazing! And it didn’t stop there! As we were dropped off at the turn off, the driver helped us fix the chain (again!) and we were able to cycle back into town and made the sunset kayak with five minutes to spare! What a journey! We never would’ve made it without our helper!
Note: Los Rapidos isn’t the easiest place to get to without a car. Cycling isn’t for everyone – I did think we were crazy at times! We were quoted 150 pesos for a taxi one way and be sure that they’ll drop you off at the actual entrance, rather than at the turn off. It’ll still be a 2km walk from the turn off!
Sunset kayak
To end the day we signed up for the sunset kayak with the hostel. We paddled across the lake to Pirates Canal where we chilled in the water with beers watching the sun go down. After the day we’d had, a beer was very needed! The waves and wind meant the kayak across was an arm work out! The return kayak was thankfully much quicker!
Cost: 100 pesos (£4 approx) and two drinks included (we ended up getting three!)
Chill at the docks
There are several free access docks where you can chill next to the lake. My friend showed me one which had a grassy spot as well as a dock. It wasn’t free, but for a tiny 5 pesos (£0.20), it was well worth it to lie on grass instead of wood! We spent the afternoon there swimming, chatting and sunbathing.
How to get to Bacalar
Bacalar is located in the Quintana Roo province on the Yucatan peninsular. It lies between Chetumal and Tulum, with Chetumal being the closer of the two.
If you’re already in Mexico, you’ll likely have previously experienced ADO buses, Mexico’s first class bus company. They have routes all over southern Mexico; you’ll be able to reach Bacalar from multiple places such as Tulum, Cancun and Playa del Carmen. Visit the ADO website or app for bus schedules and prices.
If you’re coming from Belize and Caye Caulker, you’ll pass through Chetumal on your way to Bacalar. There are buses and colectivos leaving frequently. ADO buses leave from the ADO bus station and cost 45 pesos (£2 approx).
Note: ADO buses drop off along the highway passing Bacalar. It’s around a 10/15 minute walk to the town centre.
Final thoughts
I really loved Bacalar! It was a wonderful spot to chill and the turquoise water is seriously stunning! I recommend going!
Everything I did, I really enjoyed – especially the sunrise paddle which was fab!
I’m now returning to Chetumal for my flight to Mexico City. I’ll then travel back down through Oaxaca, Chiapas and Yucatán for my flight home from Cancun. Yep I’ve said it – my flight home! I fly home on 17th December in time for Christmas. I can’t quite believe my travels are coming to an end, Mexico is my last country!
P.S. You’re in Mexico and tacos are life! Go to Mr Tacos in the main square for some delicious ones! Also, La Playita is good for a blue cheese burger – it’s more spenny but yum!
Accommodation: I stayed where the majority of backpackers do, at the Yak Lake House. I can see why it’s popular – great lakefront location and vibe for meeting people!
