I’m in Colombia!!! After a very brief 24hr stop over in Cali where I did a salsa class (when in Cali!!), I went to Hostal Pacifico in Buenaventura on Colombia’s Pacific coast for three nights.
It was a great place to relax. When the tide was low, a hidden beach would emerge. It was beautiful, surrounded by rainforest, and the water was surprisingly warm! We could stay in for ages!
We went whale watching one afternoon and saw a couple of whales and a baby (I didn’t get any pics – sorry! – they’re really hard to photograph, plus living the experience and all!). It’s crazy how big they are, the baby even jumped which was really cool!
Another afternoon we went kayaking down the river to a freshwater pool. Being surrounded by jungle was really lovely. So much stunning greenery!
I learnt a few new skills whilst I was there. I learnt the basics of slacklining from the owner. I’m no expert but with more practice I could be walking along one! Phoebe, a lovely fellow Brit from Bristol, taught me how to make a bracelet which I have now finished and am wearing.
My absolute highlight was seeing bioluminescent plankton at night. Truly magical!! On our second night at low tide we went to the cave on the beach. Splashing water on the cave’s walls we saw glowing plankton which was so cool!
The next night, we went down to the water whilst the tide was higher and it was even more magical! Pushing off from the stone steps and swimming through the water was pure wow!!
Surrounded by glowing plankton, we were swimming through stars in the night sky! Wherever my hands, arms, legs, body moved, a trail of twinkling star like plankton would follow. A really unique and special moment that I can’t put into good enough words! I absolutely loved it!
We also got to witness some beautiful storms. At night, bright flashes of lightning would light up the purple stormy sky, heavy rain would pour and pour on the metal roofs and the loudest thunder I’ve ever heard would jolt us all awake. Nature is crazy powerful and it was slightly scary at times!
The food was also tasty: great fish with sauces and coconut rice!!! Portions were a bit on the small side, especially breakfast, and I could have definitely eaten more!
How to get to Hostal Pacifico
The first leg of the journey is to Buenaventura. Cali is one of the easiest places to get there from. The journey’s around 3hrs, costs from 25,000COP (depending on type of van you go in from the bus terminal), and they leave frequently (from 4.30am-8pm). I paid 25,000COP (£6 approx) for my ride and it left around 10mins after I got there. Really good for me!
You can also get to Buenaventura from Medellin, Armenia (coming from Salento) and Bogota. From Bogota, it’s around 9hrs and costs 50,000COP (£13 approx).
Now Buenaventura itself isn’t the nicest place. When people asked me where I was going next and I replied “Buenaventura”, I got a lot of crazy looks and told to be really careful.
On the bus ride to Buenaventura’s bus terminal, we had to change roads as one of the neighbourhoods had roads closed and was currently a dangerous place to be! To get to Hostal Pacifico, you just need to pass through Buenaventura for the boat.
At the bus terminal, you need to get to the port. It’s a 15min walk or a 5/10min taxi ride. I would normally walk, but considering what I’d heard, I went with a taxi.
The boat to Hostal Pacifico is 1hr30 with the company Bahia Mar. They have an office at the docks. A return ticket costs 73,000COP (£18 approx) and then there’s an extra 8000COP (£2 approx) port fee for tourists. Boats leave at 8am, 10.30am, 1pm and 4pm.
Do buy the tickets from the Bahia Mar office!! I got waylaid at the bus terminal and ended up buying mine from a tour agency and paying 80,000COP (£20 approx). I’m honestly not sure how it happened as my plan was to go to the Bahia Mar office so it was frustrating but hey! Price wise, it was only £2 different but every little bit helps!
Final thoughts
I really enjoyed my stay at Hostal Pacifico! The hidden beach which emerges at low tide is great! Whale watching, the hammock life, slacklining and kayaking were fab! My absolute highlight was swimming with plankton, shining like the stars, at night. I’ve never seen anything like that before, such a magical experience!
I met Phoebe there and we got along really well. Together we’re attempting to go to Caño Cristales, a colourful river which isn’t the easiest to get to, after one of the hostel’s volunteers inspired us to go for it!
We’re not sure how it’s going to turn it out; either way it’ll be an adventure and we’re feeling optimistic! Stay tuned!!
