Having spent a couple of days exploring the northern towns in the Jujuy region, I headed back south to the Salta province to Cafayate which lies in the Calchaquí Valley.
It’s a beautiful area surrounded by some amazing red rock formations and the gorgeous Quebrada de las Conchas reserve. In addition to its natural attractions, wine and vineyards are also a big draw for the town.
Aside from cycling the Quebrada de las Conchas on my first full day, it’s safe to say that I spent the rest of my days in Cafayate drinking wine, lunching at vineyards and chilling in my hostel’s wonderful hammocks.
Vineyards
I visited several bodegas during my stay: Vasija Secreto, El Esteco (which was more of an attempt to go as it’s closed for renovations), Nanni and Finca las Nubes.
My two favourite were Finca las Nubes and Nanni, with Finca las Nubes just taking the top spot. They were both brilliant places for lunch.
Finca las Nubes
Finca las Nubes sits 5km outside of Cafayate’s centre. If you’re planning on visiting several vineyards out of the centre you can rent bikes for half or a full day. Alternatively, you can walk but I reckon it would take the best part of 45 minutes.
We were feeling lazy having cycled the Quebrada de las Conchas the previous day and took a taxi for $155ARG (£3 approx).
I loved loved the vineyard! Everything about it was beautiful and so peaceful! With a bottle of Torrontés white wine and a board of delicious cheese and ham, served with crusty bread, we spent the afternoon enjoying the food and views. I’d go back in a heartbeat!!
Bodega Nanni
One block away from the main square, Bodega Nanni is much more centrally located than Finca las Nubes. It’s courtyard and garden is another wonderful place to relax and eat.
Sat under a willow tree in dappled shade, I enjoyed another delicious lunch: a Malbec risotto with several glasses of Torrentés wine. I certainly was living the wine and lunching high life for two days!
Wine ice cream at Heladaría Miranda
Wine in its liquid and bottled form is not the only way to taste it in Cafayate. There are several ice cream shops selling wine flavoured ice cream. Heladería Miranda came recommended and had a Torrentés white wine and Cabernet red wine flavour on offer.
I went for the Torrentés and wow could I taste the wine! Instead of drinking wine, I was eating a glass of frozen wine. It was pretty good!
How to get to Cafayate
The easiest place to get to Cafayate from is Salta, which lies 183km to the north. Flecha Bus have multiple daily bus departures which take 3.5/4hrs and cost $350ARG (£6 approx). The bus ride passes through some spectacular scenery, including the Quebrada de las Conchas on Ruta 68.
If you’ve rented a car, you’ll be able to drive the bus route in your own time as well as arrive from other destinations which are not served by the buses. For example, if you’re hoping to get to Cafayate from Cachi, you need a car to drive along Ruta 40 as no bus goes in that direction (to my disappointment).
Final thoughts
I really really liked Cafayate, you might be able to tell since I spent nearly six days there. I originally only planned to stay for three and then return to Salta for the other three before my flight to Salta.
Instead I spent all my time in Cafayate because of wine, vineyards, sunshine, hammocks in great hostels and cycling the Quebrada de las Conchas. Need I say more!!
For me it was a wonderful place to take things slow. There is something about lying in a hammock with grapes above you that is just life!
When I first arrived I wasn’t sure how to slow down. I felt like I always had to be doing something. Fast forward five days and I can safely say I’ve embraced the slower pace and have really enjoyed relaxing and not feeling like I need to do or see everything. The orange hammock in my hostel must have my name on at this point!
I also got lucky with the weather as I was expecting five days of heavy rain and there wasn’t a single drop! My normally really reliable weather app definitely got it wrong!
For vineyards, you have to go to Finca las Nubes – I absolutely loved everything about it…the wine, food, the views, the atmosphere!!! Bodega Nanni and the restaurant there is also fab!
Just enjoy the wine, food and beautiful landscapes!!
I’m now heading back to Salta for my flight to Mendoza, more wine for me coming up!
