Pucón was my first stop on crossing back into Chile. It’s backdropped by the active Villarrica volcano and is a popular hub for activity and adventure lovers.
Without a doubt climbing the Villarrica volcano takes the top spot as the number one activity to do in Pucón. In crampons you climb up to the crater and then you descend sliding down, using your ice axe as a brake!
After the explosion in 2015, climbing the volcano is only possible with a guided tour, unless you can prove you are an experienced mountaineer to CONAF and show them the required paperwork. They’re not the most budget friendly of tours starting from around $80,000CLP (£80 approx).
A unique experience, one that I decided not to do…
It is a unique experience for sure but one I didn’t jump at the chance to do, despite talking to many backpackers who recommended it.
I did consider why I didn’t go for it and climb an active volcano. I think it was a combination of price and the fact that it wasn’t something I felt I needed to do.
If it was something I was super keen on doing I would have done it, irrespective of price. I’ve also experienced walking in crampons and with an ice pick previously during my ten week trip to South America in 2017 when I tried to climb Huayna Potosí in Bolivia. Having done that, I felt that I didn’t need to do something so similar. Also, I’ll be in Ecuador at some point which has its fair share of volcanoes to see!
On a side note: I find the money situation funny. I’d been saving for a year to go travelling yet now I’m currently travelling I’m struggling to let go of the saving mentality. It’s something I need to work on!
So now I’ve finished talking about Villarrica volcano and why I didn’t climb it let’s move on to what I did do in my two days in Pucón…
Huerquehue National Park
The first day I went to Huerquehue National Park. The park has several trails with the two main ones being Los Lagos and San Sebastián.
I’d originally planned to walk the Los Lagos trail. On arrival it seemed that most people were signing up for the San Sebastián hike. I ummed and ahhed a lot standing by the park entrance until I finally reached a decision with two other guys that we’d go for it and do the San Sebastián trail. It seemed to be the walk to do for panoramic views.
I’m still confused as to how long the walk is. The park ranger told us 13km one way, but Maps.Me and other signs say around 7km. Who knows! Either way and distance aside, it’s an uphill walk!! There’s one flatish section in the middle but for the most part we were walking quite steeply uphill, especially for the final section!
The last hour is tough, I really wasn’t expecting such a steep incline. I was using tree branches as handholds to pull myself up and to stop myself from slipping on the dusty dirt path. My hands were fully covered in dirt and dust by the time we reached the top!
After the dirt path, there was a rock section to climb over and around. I found this part easier as I was less likely to slip and the handholds were better.
From the top the views were fab! It was a gorgeous day with clear skies. Villarrica volcano was visible in the distance and we could look down on the lakes around us. A perfect spot to have lunch!
After an hour at the top, we started our descent down to catch the last bus back to Pucón. It had taken us about 3hrs to reach the peak, which included us missing signposts and going off track several times (our conversations were that interesting!), so we reckoned we’d make it down quicker.
On our way down we stopped off multiple times for photos with the autumnal turning leaves and the volcano in the background. I absolutely love seeing the leaves changing gradually from green to orange. It’s so beautiful!
It’s sad, I’ve now pretty much left Patagonia. Seeing the area in full autumn would be amazing! I might have to return at some point to see it!
We made the bus with a good amount of time to spare. I really recommend the hike! Do check the weather before doing it as with poor weather the trail can be closed and the views won’t be worth it.
How to get to Huerquehue National Park by public transport
In Pucón, Caburgua buses run three daily buses to Huerquehue. They leave at 8.30, 13.00 and 16.00 and return from the park at 9.30, 14.10 and 17.10. The schedule does say there is a last bus at 18.20 in Dec/Jan and 19.30 in Feb/March. I went to the park on the 1st April so got the 17.10 bus back. It costs $2200CLP (£2.50ish) one way and $4000CLP (£4.50ish) return.
If you’re going to the park for a day hike, you’ll want to get the 8.30am bus. Likewise, if you do the San Sebastián hike then the 17.10 return bus is the bus you’ll be aiming for.
Entrance fee
Huerquehue National Park does have an entrance fee. In low season, I paid $2500CLP (less than £3). I think in high season a ticket costs $5000CLP (£6 approx).
Ojos del Caburgua
I had a more relaxed second day. After a small lie in, I caught the bus to the Ojos del Caburgua, a small set of waterfalls, with an Australian-German couple who I had previously met in Bariloche cycling the Circuito Chico. It’s funny how I sometimes bump into the same people multiple times!
Buses to Ojos del Caburgua run every half an hour and cost $800CLP (£1 approx) one way. The waterfalls are located between two different private properties so there are two entrances.
I recommend going to the second entrance (tell the driver you want to get off at El Cristo). It’s a longer walk to the entrance, around 25mins down a gravel road, but the views are better! You see them from the front rather than just above. Entrance cost us $1000CLP (just over £1) in April, it might be more in high season.
Tip: Go to the Ojos del Caburgua around 12pm or later. In the early morning the waterfalls will be in the shade as the sun isn’t high enough.
I wouldn’t say the Ojos del Caburgua are a must see. They’re more a nice addition to a day trip or if you fancy a relaxed day in Pucón you can visit for an hour or so.
Places to eat
Trawen
After hiking up Cerro San Sebastián, I went for dinner at Trawen. I was craving anything but pasta and their menu had risottos which peaked my interest.
I’m not a huge fan of mushrooms so I asked if it was possible to have a vegetable risotto instead. They made one for me and it was really tasty even though some mushrooms did sneak in! I might be starting to like them!
Address: Av O’Higgins 311, Pucón
Cassis
Cassis is a cafe/restaurant that does ice cream, waffles, crepes, cakes, sandwiches and more! I ordered a slice of Calafate cake (essentially chocolate cake) and oh my goodness it was massive! So so rich and yummy!
I couldn’t finish it and had to take it away. I had my second go on the night bus later and still was defeated! I finally finished it in Santiago!
It’s definitely the place to go if you’re looking for something sweet!
Address: Fresia 223, Pucón
Puras Pavadas
Puras Pavadas is a small empanada shop two blocks from the bus station area. They make super tasty empanadas! I grabbed a meat one for dinner before getting the night bus to Santiago. So good! They cost $2000CLP (£2 approx).
Address: Palguin 370, Pucón
How to get to Pucón
I arrived to Pucón from San Martin de los Andes in Argentina. The bus company is called Igillaima and there’s a daily bus that costs $700ARG (£12 approx).
On Mondays to Saturdays the bus leaves at 6am and on Sundays it’s at 2pm. The journey takes around 5 hours, but in my case it took an hour longer due to a long border crossing.
It definitely goes down as the longest border crossing of my trip so far. A guy had his bag sniffed out by a dog which they had to check on the Argentinean side and then on the Chilean side they had one person stamping passports. A super slow process when a bus load of people arrive! Having more desks open would definitely speed up the process!
Getting a snack and a fruit juice on the bus later made me happier as did the peachy dusky sky and orange sun at sunset. It’s the small things!
You can also get to Pucón from Santiago. It’s a 10hr bus and there are lots of bus companies (Pullman, AndesMar, Jet Sur) driving the route. You can take one in the morning or get an overnight one.
I’m doing the journey in reverse so Pucón to Santiago on a night bus with Pullman. Prices are from around $12,000-$18,000CLP (£14-20 approx) depending on the bus company, and whether you choose the semi-cama or cama option.
Final thoughts
I liked Pucón. It’s a place with lots to do but to do the activities or access the places you need to do a tour, get a bus or have a car.
I really enjoyed my day hike in Huerquehue National Park and it was easy to get to by bus. The climb was an adventure and the views were stunning!
Despite not having done it, climbing Villarrica volcano should be on your list if you’re looking for adventure!
I’m now continuing my journey north and will stop in Santiago and Valparaíso for a few days. I’ll then start my loop of Northern Chile and Argentina!
