The colonial city of Granada is a usual stop on a visit to Nicaragua. The colonial streets are nice to wander and lakes and volcanoes are nearby. In addition to being one of Nicaragua’s main cities, Granada also holds the title as the oldest city in Central America!
I was in Granada and the surrounding area for four days. Here’s what I got up to…
Sunset tour of Las Isletas
Granada lies on the shore of Lake Nicaragua and has lots of tiny islands. You can go on a boat tour or rent a kayak to see them. I went on a sunset boat tour with my hostel and it was lovely.
The islands aren’t really anything remarkable (sorry!!), yet at the golden hour the light on the water, islets and greenery was beautiful.
Floating through the water with some drinks and watching the sunset was a lovely way to spend an evening.
Cost: $15 with drinks included.
Laguna de Apoyo
Formed from a volcanic eruption thousands of years, Laguna de Apoyo is the biggest and deepest crater lake in Nicaragua. Set on the outskirts of Granada, it’s an easy visit from the city and a must for a refreshing dip to escape the heat!
Getting there: You can either take a shuttle or use the chicken buses. Paradiso Hostel have a shuttle that leaves at 10am and costs $2 one way or $3 return. To reach the lake via chicken bus, you’ll need to change once and time it right. First hop on a bus to Masaya or Managua and let the driver know you’re going to the lake (C$10). They’ll drop you off at the turn off. You’ll want to be at the turn off in time for the Masaya-Laguna Apoyo bus which passes at around 11am (C$15). By public transport, it’s around a £1 return journey. If you don’t make the connection, you can get a taxi for C$100 (£2.50 approx). If that’s the case and there’s not several of you, I’d take the shuttle!
Whilst day trips to the lake are a popular choice and can also be teamed with a visit to see lava at Masaya volcano, I would consider spending a night at Paradiso Hostel. I stayed two nights there on the lake and thoroughly enjoyed it. Originally I was staying one night, but it changed to two! I could’ve gone for longer too!
I loved being at the lake for dusk and swimming out to the floating deck to watch the sky turn pink. So beautiful and peaceful!
During the day, I spent a lot of time in the water, relaxing on the deck, floating in a ring and I went kayaking one afternoon. The lake was so so still, a massive mirror reflecting the clouds in the sky. Really cool!
Cost
Day trip – $9 in total – $3 for the shuttle and $6 for the day pass.
Overnight – $11 in total (food not included) – $3 for the shuttle and a dorm bed costs $8. Paradiso has an on-site restaurant and meals mainly cost between $5-8. I bought dinner every day (the chicken curry was really good!) and came with my own supplies for breakfast and lunch!
Lava at Masaya Volcano
Volcanoes in Central America are a common occurrence – they’re everywhere! Nicaragua has seven active volcanoes and for one of them, Masaya volcano, it’s possible to go and see the lava. Having never before been close enough to an active volcano to see lava bubble away, I was interested to go!
I booked an evening tour through my hostel for $20. I and two others were picked up at 4.30pm and driven to the volcano. There was a short queue to pass the entrance, maybe 15mins, and then we got to the information centre.
After a short walk around the centre, we got back in the car and drove up to the lava. The sun had just set, the light was fading, and getting out of the car we were greeted by a huge sulphur cloud rising out the crater. Luckily the wind was blowing the cloud away from us!
Peering over the crater rim to the lava far below was pretty cool! It was bubbling away and a hot hot red!
I was happy watching it for ages, but the wind had other plans. It quickly changed direction and soon the sulphur cloud was blowing towards us. Taking it as our cue to leave, we hopped back in the car and returned to Granada.
Note: You can visit Masaya volcano independently. Entrance in the evenings is $10 and I’ve heard you need a vehicle to get in.
Wander around town
The rest of my time in Granada I spent exploring the streets. I tried some typical Nicaraguan food: Vigorón and Quesillo.
Vigorón is typical to Granada so I wanted to try it there. My best attempt at describing it is a plate of boiled yucca, crunchy pork rinds, topped with cabbage and served on a banana leaf. It’s got a tart taste and the jury’s still out on it! I kinda liked it but I also wouldn’t be rushing back for another.
I liked quesillos much more! They’re essentially a tortilla wrapped around a slice of white cheese, which is melted, and a dollop of cream. You’ll find carts selling them on the street. It’ll be given to you in a plastic bag which makes for an interesting eating experience. In theory, the plastic bag is to avoid making a mess; however, I struggled and cream and cheese went everywhere! I’m sure there’s a local method!
I also went up the bell tower in Iglesia Merced. It cost C$33/$1 to go up and the views of the cathedral and over the city are great! It would be a good sunset spot too!
How to get to Granada
Granada is easy to get to from north or south. If you’re coming from the south, from Ometepe or San Juan del Sur, you’ll need to go to Rivas for a chicken bus to Granada. They leave every couple of hours and cost C$50 (£1 approx), plus C$30 for big rucksacks! We hopped from our taxi from San Jorge straight onto a chicken bus to Granada. It was really good timing or the buses are more frequent than I thought.
From the north, say León, you’ll be going via Managua. Head to León’s Terminal de Buses which is nearly 2km from the centre. You can walk it, but León is hot and a taxi or bike taxi costs $1 or less depending on negotiation skills! We paid C$20 (£0.50) each for a bike taxi from the terminal to our hostels in León. Minibuses to Managua leave when full (or nearly full!), cost C$71 (£2 approx) and take around 1.5hrs.
The minivan will arrive to Managua’s UCA bus station. The minivan to Granada leaves literally less than 50m away and getting off the bus you’ll be asked where you’re going next and pointed to the next transport. The ride to Granada takes around an hour and costs C$33 (£1 approx). Drop off in Granada is very close to the main square so everything is in walking distance!
Instead of public buses, shuttles are also an option and are offered by most hostels. They are more expensive than the chicken buses (still reasonable when compared to our home countries), but more comfortable and direct. For example, shuttles from León to Granada leave at 9am, cost $15 and take around 3hrs.
Fact: Managua is the capital of Nicaragua to prevent disagreements and conflict between Granada and León over which city should be the capital.
Final thoughts
Granada is a nice city to spend a few days. You can do as much or as little as you want – wander the streets and chill or do several activities and tours. Seeing the lava bubbling away at Volcano Masaya was cool and my highlight was Laguna de Apoyo! I ended up staying two nights because I loved the lake so much. Such a beautiful chill spot! Go!!
I also really liked my hostel, Boca en Boca. It had a really nice vibe and was easy to get chatting to other travellers!
I’m now off to another of Nicaragua’s cities: León!
