On Colombia’s northern coast lies Tayrona National Park. With great beaches, forest and nature, it’s one of Colombia’s most popular places to visit.
If you’re exploring the northern coast from Santa Marta upwards, it’s more than likely you’ll either be visiting, or driving by on your way further north.
We spent two days in Tayrona National Park, spending our night in the park in hammocks at Cabo San Juan beach. Here’s how we did it…
Day One – Enter at Zaino and walk to Cabo San Juan
We arrived to Tayrona’s Zaino entrance slightly before 8am. Early birds and eager beavers! We were keen to book a hammock for Cabo San Juan. We booked them very easily; I reckon we could’ve arrived a bit later! Still better early and booked than late and nothing!
Tip: There are shuttle buses for 3000COP (£1 approx) that drive you from the entrance of Zaino to the start of the trail. I’d go for this, otherwise it’s a half an hour walk along a dusty road – a waste of time and energy!
We started by walking the 9 piedras trail. It’s a circular route, takes about an hour and has some great views.
We never finished the round route as we walked along Cañaveral beach thinking we could join up with the main trail to the beaches later. Our planned shortcut didn’t work! We ended up walking around EcoHabs accommodation for a while which looked very nice (and way out of our budget!!).
When we got back on the main trail, it took us less than 2hrs to reach Cabo San Juan. We passed several other beaches (Arrecifes, Arenilla, La Piscina) on the way.
It was really hot! Most of the walk was in dappled shade through the forest (so needed and we saw monkeys!). At various points you could buy coconut, ice cream and juice from the locals. We got freshly squeezed orange juice! I was a sweaty mess and it was so refreshing!
Once at Cabo San Juan, we got our hammocks for the night (forgot to take a pic!) and spent the rest of the day chilling on the beach in the shade (really hot!). Finding a spot in the shade wasn’t easy – lots of people!
Tip: Hammocks have lockers for you to store your valuables. Take a padlock with you!
Cabo San Juan camp prices
Hammock: 40,000COP (£10 approx), 50,000COP for hammock on watchtower
Restaurant: Cheapest dinner is rice and vegetables for 15,000COP (£4 approx). Variety of dishes between 15,000-40,000COP.
Day Two – Hike to Playa Brava and leave from Calabazo
We had a lot of walking to do! We were walking first from Cabo San Juan to Playa Brava and then from Playa Brava out the park via the Calabazo entrance.
It took us a while to find the right trail to Playa Brava. We didn’t take the official trail from camp and picked it up later. I’d follow the trail on Maps.Me next time!
It took us around 2.5hrs to reach Playa Brava. It was a hard walk – several steep uphill sections and so hot and humid! I was an even sweatier mess than the day before! Dripping water!
It’s a quiet trail; for the most part it was just us and the forest. A really nice contrast to the busy main trail from the previous day! I really liked seeing Tayrona without the crowds!
We had an hour and a half at Playa Brava. It was so so quiet in comparison to Cabo San Juan! Just us and a few others!
Note: If you’re looking for a quieter Tayrona experience, you can stay at Playa Brava in hammocks, huts or take a tent.
Due to strong currents, swimming at Playa Brava isn’t allowed. We still bathed but kept to the shallows and stayed standing.
After lunch, we started our walk out the park to Calabazo. Another hot and sweaty walk with more uphills! The walk is less covered than the others; thankfully, it stayed cloudy which made walking easier.
It took us under 3hrs (2hrs45 to be precise!) to get back to Calabazo. We saw more monkeys!! By the end, we were both feeling the walk, especially the downhill part of the end!
Before going back to Palomino, we went to Santa Marta to withdraw some much needed cash and then got another bus back to Palomino. It was a long day!!
How to get to Tayrona National Park
Tayrona National Park is on Colombia’s northern coast.
Santa Marta is the closest big city to the park. It’s an hour bus ride from the marketplace and costs 7000COP (£2 approx). Buses leave frequently, every 15mins from 6am.
If you don’t fancy staying in Santa Marta (we didn’t!), you can stay at one of the smaller beach towns along the coast and still get to Tayrona easily.
We were staying in Palomino and got a bus back towards Santa Marta, hopping off at the park entrance. The bus ride took just under an hour and cost us 7000COP. Again, they leave frequently – around every 15/30mins.
Tayrona National Park: Good to know
Opening times and price
The park is open from 8am to 5pm. Tickets cost 53,500COP plus 2500COP for the park insurance. So 56,000COP (£13 approx) in total. Insurance is valid per day.
When buying our entrance tickets, no one asked us how many days we were spending in the park. We only paid for one day of park insurance, despite us staying for two. I’m not really sure how their system works, you may be asked for how many days you’re staying.
There are two entrances
Tayrona Park has two entrances: Zaino and Calabazo.
Zaino is by far the most popular and main entrance. From Zaino, you can reach Cañaveral, Arrecifes, Arenilla, La Piscina and Cabo de San Juan beaches.
Tip: If you’re staying the night in the hammocks at Cabo San Juan, you can book your hammocks at the Zaino entrance.
Calabazo is the quieter entrance and for those who’d like to hike more and get off the main tourist path.
Note: You can’t book hammocks for Cabo San Juan at Calabazo! The entrance is literally a hut with someone on duty!
From Calabazo, it’s a 3hr walk to Playa Brava. You can also walk to Cabo San Juan as well.
Go in the week, avoid public holidays and weekends
Tayrona National Park gets busy! It’s very popular with Colombians. We went in the week and it was still busy, more than I expected.
I can’t imagine what it would be like at a weekend or public holiday. Go in the week if you can!
Closing dates
Tayrona National Park isn’t open for twelve months of the year. It’s usually closed from 28th January-28th February. For 2020, it will be closed from 1-15th February, 1-15th June and 19th October-2nd November.
Final thoughts
I’d heard and read a few things saying that Tayrona National Park was overhyped. Having now been, I can see this. Whilst it’s beautiful, it’s not the most amazing National Park I’ve been to.
I enjoyed our stay there and I’m happy we went. However, it won’t go down as a Colombia highlight.
Yes, it did have beautiful beaches – Cabo San Juan is very photogenic! It was just too busy in the day.
I’d recommend spending a night in Tayrona to see it without the crowds. When all the day trippers had left, it was a much nicer experience. Early the following morning, before 10am when the first day trippers arrive, Cabo San Juan was really quiet. I’m really glad we saw it that way!
Also, if you’re up for walking, do consider going to Playa Brava. It’s off the main trail and you’ll have Tayrona mostly to yourselves! I really enjoyed this part of our visit!
We’re now back in Palomino, before we head up north to Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas, the most northern point in South America!!
