After my visit to the Aguas Turquesas in Ayacucho, I went to Cusco. Yep, for the second time!! I’d already been back in 2017! This time around I had a special visitor – my Mum!!
We had five days together! I arrived to Cusco a couple of days before her and did a few things I didn’t do last time. I really liked the familiarity that came with returning to Cusco and already knowing my way around.
Laguna Kinsaqocha
On one of the days I went to Laguna Kinsaqocha with a friend. I’d say it’s one of the lesser known things to do in Cusco but one I really enjoyed – for that reason.
We caught a colectivo from Cusco to Pisac which took 50mins and cost 4 soles (£1 approx) each. Colectivos are small vans which leave when full, normally every 20 minutes.
Once in Pisac, we got a taxi to the lake. It was around a 45 minute drive from Pisac and cost us 120 soles (£30 approx). We had 3hrs to walk and explore the lake before the taxi returned to collect us.
The lake and surrounding scenery was beautiful! Really impressive and even more amazing that there were no other tourists around. We basically had the place to ourselves!
Salineras de Maras
For the other day my friend and I went to the Salineras de Maras. We were planning to get a colectivo to Urubamba (approx cost 6 soles – £1.50) and get off at the turn off to Maras. From there we’d get a taxi to the salt terraces.
However, the colectivo we got in was empty and didn’t show any signs of filling up soon. Instead we got a taxi from Cusco to the Salineras paying 110 soles (£25 approx). Yep that was more than we should have paid had we done it independently, and looking back we could definitely have found another colectivo to take us. However, a taxi was easier and more convenient so I was happy to pay that. That said, next time I’d look around for more colectivos!
The Salineras have a 10 soles (£2.50 approx) entrance fee. Our taxi dropped us off and we had an hour to explore and take photos. They are very cool! Just watch your step – you might end up taking more of the Salineras than you intended back to Cusco with you! My friend certainly did!
You can also vist the Salineras as part of a Sacred Valley tour from Cusco. Since the tour will visit other sites in the Sacred Valley, you’ll need to buy a boleto turistico (full ticket is 130 soles – £30 approx, but there are variations available) to gain entrance. I didn’t want to pay that much and also didn’t fancy visiting the other sites so preferred to do it ourselves.
Mum arrives!!
Mum arrived on Friday 10th May and I went to the airport to pick her up. It was weird to be the one picking up, normally it’s the other way around! I’d been really looking forward to seeing her – super excited!!
We had six days together and were spending two in Cusco, getting the train to Aguas Calientes for Machu Picchu on the Sunday and then returning to Cusco on Monday afternoon after Machu Picchu.
That was the plan or so we thought! We went to collect the train tickets from Peru Rail’s office. People were taking ages and we couldn’t figure out why. Just when we were close to the front, the lady asked us to go to another of their offices. Off we went to find the office she’d said closed and the last one with another massive queue.
When we finally got to the desk, we found out that there was a farmer’s strike on the Monday, the day of our return train journey to Cusco! It now all made sense why people were taking so long, last minute decisions had to be made! Honestly a bit of advance warning would have been nice! Talk about a hot seat!
Because of the strike we were allowed to alter our train tickets to be a day earlier or later. We went with a day later, so an extra night in Aguas Calientes and returning to Cusco on the Tuesday. With that sorted, we went for pizza which was really tasty.
Later, I was able to book an extra night in Aguas Calientes and our hotel in Cusco was very understanding about our change in circumstances and therefore number of nights we were staying.
We spent a very chill Saturday in Cusco, walking the streets, exploring the markets, watching a parade in the Plaza de Armas…and adjusting to altitude – well Mum did! I had luckily already had a few days in Cusco to adjust.
On the Sunday we got a colectivo (10 soles each – £2.50 approx) to Ollantaytambo for our train to Aguas Calientes. We arrived to Aguas Calientes mid-afternoon and got ready for Machu Picchu the next morning.
Machu Picchu, wonder of the world
Our tickets for Machu Picchu were for the 7am entrance and for Machu Picchu mountain. Our day started at 4.30am as we were walking up. We started climbing the steps at around 5.45am and reached the entrance in just over an hour. There were a lot of steps and they were just the first of many more to come!
First up, once in Machu Picchu, was to head to the main viewpoint and from there go to Machu Picchu mountain which we had to start climbing between 7-8am. We started around 7.45am and it took us 1hr20 to climb what felt like hundreds of steps – go Mum!!!
We ended up waiting over an hour at the top for the clouds to partially clear and show Machu Picchu below. I was so happy when they did!
It took us 55mins to walk down, always so much quicker! With our Machu Picchu mountain ticket we were able to enter twice (normally only once!) so we left for a toilet break and then reentered to walk around the ruins themselves.
We stopped to refuel eating hard boiled eggs and crackers on the stone steps while getting a few odd looks from passing tour groups! Thank goodness it wasn’t full sunshine as it would have been far too hot. The clouds were wonderful!
Another bonus was that Machu Picchu seemed significantly quieter than my last visit (yay!!!), which I reckon was down to the farmer’s strike.
We started the walk back down to Aguas Calientes mid-afternoon. Stepping off the last step was a welcome relief for my legs! It was a day of steps, steps and more steps for sure!
Back at the hotel, the shower was amazing and we then headed to dinner. We found the most incredible Italian restaurant (Incontri del Pueblo Viejo); the food was pure heaven!! The best Italian I’ve had in a long time and in Aguas Calientes of all places!
The next morning we got the train back to Cusco. On the journey we were treated to some dancing entertainment and of course Mum was picked as a dance partner! So so fun and there’s video proof!
Back in Cusco, we sorted a few things out with bags and then headed to a local Peruvian restaurant. We were the only ones there at the start so the waiter talked to us and showed us lots of different varieties of Peruvian potato and corn. It was a unique dining experience!! The trout was amazing and the Lomo Saltado the best I’ve had!
The next day we flew to Lima where we had the afternoon before we parted ways. Mum was flying home and I was continuing north to Huaraz on a night bus.
How to get to Cusco
I arrived to Cusco on an 8pm night bus from Ayacucho. The journey takes around 14hrs and the cost varies depending on bus company and seat type. As it was a long night bus, I decided to not go for the cheapest.
I went with Movil buses and paid 90 soles (£22 approx) for a cama seat. The extra space was wonderful and I got a decent sleep for spending the night on the bus.
Other bus companies running the Ayacucho to Cusco route are Palomino and Expresa los Chankes. Check in their offices for up to date times and prices.
For other ways to get to Cusco, see my when in Cusco – 10 things to do post!
Final thoughts
I really enjoyed returning to Cusco for a second time. Knowing my bearings was lovely and it was great to be able to do things I didn’t do previously.
My highlight was definitely seeing my mum and going to Machu Picchu with her. I loved seeing it for a second time* and sharing the experience with her! I won’t forget it! Mum, you totally smashed the trip and all the walking! You’re a star!!
Thank you so much for coming, I had the best time! Although I’m rubbish at goodbyes, I’d want you to visit again in a heartbeat!!
*Second visit to Machu Picchu?! Correct! On my first trip to South America in 2017, my friend and I spent 3 weeks in Southern Peru. We did the 5 day Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu which was seriously amazing! Click here to read more about it!!
