Meaning ‘big river’ in the Mapuche language, it’s easy to see why Futaleufú is a hot spot for white water rafting and kayaking. White water rafting is undoubtedly the number one activity to do in Futaleufú.
Funnily enough rafting wasn’t originally something I fancied doing. I was going to do a few hikes instead and then cross the border back into Argentina. Thankfully Marjon (the girl I’d got the bus with that day) easily persuaded me and it was really great fun! I really enjoyed it!
White Water Rafting
We arrived to Futaleufú on a Saturday evening (after almost having my first transport mishap of the trip!) and booked the ‘puente a puente’ rafting option with the company attached to our hostel for the following day. It cost $50,000CLP (£55 approx) and transport, equipment, food and photos were included.
We met at 12.30pm on Sunday and drove for about 30/40 minutes to the start point. Once we were all suited up in our wetsuits, shoes, helmets and life jackets our guide talked us through what to expect on the river and rapids, commands to follow and the safety instructions e.g. what to do if the boat flipped or you fell out! I was slightly nervous at this point!
With everything explained, we all had to jump in the water so it wouldn’t be a shock later if we fell in. It made a lot of sense, but boy was it cold! It was also good practice for hauling people back into the boat!
For the next 2 hours, we paddled down the river and sped down the rapids. It was an adrenalin rush for sure! It was actually a perfect route for us beginners because the water was lower and between the rapids we had breaks to recover. The water is at its highest in November, December and January so is more fast flowing and has less recovery moments.
There is definitely a technique to paddling. To be most effective and powerful you need to use your whole body, so lean forward with the paddle and pull the water back with you. If you just use your arms you won’t get enough power. It is hard work! The next day I was feeling my abs and bum cheeks!
Concentration was also key throughout the rapid sections. There were five commands we had to react quickly to:
Adelante – paddle forward
Atras – paddle backward
Alto – assume stop position
A dentro – sit down inside the boat
Remos arriba – paddles up! This was the most fun one by far! We did it before and after every rapid as a group cheer celebration.
At about the halfway mark, we had the chance to jump from a 4 metre rock. Generally speaking I’m a chicken! This time I decided to push myself and leap off the ledge. I made sure to go second so I couldn’t talk myself out of it. Standing on the edge looking down waiting for the go sign was nerve wracking. I did it though and am proud of myself!
During the rapids sections, you really had to keep paddling forward strongly and ignore the waves and water coming over the boat splashing you hard in the face. Your instant reaction is to stop, stare and and in my case hope for the best! It is those moments that you really have to put everything into paddling and following commands.
There were a few times when I thought I was going in the water but I managed to stay aboard. One girl did fall out and there was a scramble to get her back in. It made it easier that she didn’t end up far from the boat.
We never flipped thankfully! It was only later back at the hostel that our guide told us we had a very close shave! He thought we were all going in at one point!
Towards the end I was getting really cold and couldn’t feel my hands. Thankfully there were some jackets we could wear over our wetsuits which helped. With no feeling in my hands, unclipping my life jacket and getting out my wetsuit was tricky!
There is the option to continue rafting for two more kilometres. It costs $15,000CLP (£15 approx) more and there needs to be at least 4 people. As a group we decided that we didn’t need to do the next section.
How to get to Futaleufú
Situated really close to the Argentinian Chilean border, you can get to Futaleufu from both Argentina and Chile.
I arrived from the Chilean side. I got the 8am bus from Coyhaique to Santa Lucia and then a connecting bus from Santa Lucia to Futaleufú. It costs $18,000CLP (£20 approx) to Santa Lucia with Buses Becker and arrives around 4.45pm.
The bus passes Queulat National Park, Puyuhuapi, La Junta, Santa Lucia and ends in Chaitén. About an hour after arriving to Santa Lucia, the small bus to Futaleufu turns up.
This was where I almost had my first transport mishap and got left in tiny Santa Lucia. The bus arrived but was already full! The driver kept saying there were no more seats and when I asked when there was another one he said maybe tomorrow at 1pm.
Digging our heels in, Marjon and I waited close to the door and said we’d stand if necessary. We finally got on the bus and even had seats! There were three other backpackers who also managed to get on after us and had to stand.
The driver asked the other passengers if they minded three people standing. He really didn’t care for our opinion!! The drive to Futaleufú took about 2 hours and cost $1500CLP (£2 approx).
Tip: Make sure you know what days buses run. It’s not every day! You can get to Futaleufú with Buses Becker on Tuesdays and Saturdays at 8am. Remember there is a connection at Santa Lucia.
From Argentina
You can get to Futaleufú from Bariloche and El Bolsón. You will have to go via Esquel where you change for a bus to the border. The bus from Esquel to the border takes just under 2 hours and costs $255ARG (£5 approx). Again check what days the buses run!
I was going from Futaleufú to the Chilean border and then from the Argentinian border to Esquel. Colectivos from Futaleufú run on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 9am and 7pm costing $2500CLP (£3 approx). After we crossed the border, there was a short wait for the bus to Esquel which arrived at 10am. I imagine going in the other direction works similarly.
Final thoughts
I’d never done white water rafting before. As a complete beginner I was quite nervous, especially as I’m not hugely confident in water and rapids are even stronger.
I’m so glad I was talked into doing it. It was such a fun experience and going a little out your comfort zone always brings a nice sense of achievement. Futaleufú was a great place to have a go and, although I’d still be cautious, I would do it again!
Futaleufú as a place is also very nice. I was there in mid-March and it was very quiet. I’m sure in January and February there is more life and activity.
I only spent one full day there for rafting. I had planned to spend more; however, rain was mostly forecast for the next few days so I decided to move on early. I would have liked to do the Piedra del Aguila walk and the walk to the viewpoint over Laguna Espejo.
I’m now crossing back into Argentina and going to El Bolsón and then Bariloche. Even though Bariloche still counts as Patagonia, I do feel like I’m leaving the Patagonia area which is sad. Bariloche does mean lots of lakes, forests and chocolate temptations which is exciting!
