During my time in Patagonia penguins were on my wishlist to see. I really really wanted to see them! I mean who wouldn’t want to see penguins up close!
On my way up to Puerto Natales I stopped off at Punta Arenas for two nights so I could visit Isla Magdalena and its penguin colony.
The penguins
The penguins on Isla Magdalena come from the south coast of Brazil every year. In September they start migrating south to the Magellan Strait so they can benefit from the longer days and more daylight.
The male arrives first to scope out the area and the female follows approximately 15 days later. A penguin pair can lay a maximum of two eggs which take around 40-45 days to hatch. Once the chick is born, the parents take turns to look after the chick and go fish. When the chick is 2 months old, its parents will introduce it to the sea and swimming.
The first few weeks of February usually signal the start of the return journey to Brazil. The chicks, who are now independent, leave first and the adults last. They leave at the end of March/start of April as their feathers take longer to change. The return swim takes 2 months passing Argentina, the Falklands, Uruguay until they reach Brazil.
The tour
There are several agencies that offer penguin tours. Comapa and Solo Expediciones are two I know of. I went with Comapa and booked the 12.15 departure for $55,000 pesos (approx £64). I would have ideally liked to go on the 8am boat, however it was fully booked.
Comapa tours depart from Tres Puentes port which you need to get to an hour before departure. To get to the port you can take a taxi or a number 15 or 20 colectivo. Taxis cost around $3000/$4000 pesos.
I almost got a taxi until the man at my hostel told me about colectivos and how much cheaper they are. They really are, they cost $500 pesos! I stood at the bus stop for a while looking for a standard minivan or small bus until it finally clicked that colectivos were normal cars with numbers on them. I did wonder why it was taking so long for one to come.
Once I realised this, a 15 colectivo arrived straight away and I hopped in. It’s about 15minutes from the centre to the port.
Once at the port, be prepared to wait around! Tours are very liable to delays and cancellations due to sudden changes in weather and sea conditions. The day I went was sunny and cloudy so I thought there would no problem.
Due to strong winds and choppy waves, we didn’t leave until 13.30 and even then I was unsure as to whether we’d make it to the island. I’d spoken to a lady who had gone on the tour the previous day, 45 minutes into the boat ride they’d had to return to port because of the weather! She was trying again today and luckily we made it to the island!
The tour lasts around 4hrs. It took about 1hr15 to get to the island and 1hr30 on the way back. The journey back was a lot choppier with waves splashing high up the windows. Sick bags were given out too. If you get sea sick it might be worth taking a motion sickness pill beforehand.
We had an hour on the island with the penguins. There is a roped path to follow which you’re not allowed to cross! Stepping foot on the island I was greeted by a strong funky poop smell! It was super super windyyy so hold on tight to anything you don’t want blown away!
It was so cool to see these small penguins up close. A few were heading for a swim and others were sitting or lying down, sleepily enjoying the sunshine when the clouds parted. Most of them were in total relax mode and were super cute!! It was fab!
We got back to Punta Arenas at 17.15. I’d originally planned to quickly dash back to my hostel, collect my bags and then grab a bus to Puerto Natales. However, I couldn’t face the dash so I booked another night and a bus for 8am the next day.
Getting to Punta Arenas
By Bus
The two nearest places are Puerto Natales and then Ushuaia. You’ll probably arrive from one of them depending on which way you’re travelling – north or south. I’m going north so caught the bus from Ushuaia. It cost approx £40.
I recommend booking a bus several days in advance as they do sell out. I spent two more days in Ushuaia because there were no more seats! Also, check what days buses leave, it’s not always every day!
Buses leave Ushuaia at 8am and take approximately 12hrs factoring in border crossings and a ferry. They’re normally quicker than 12hrs if border crossings are smooth and they get on a ferry straight away. My bus took 9hrs (yayy!) and enabled me to book a penguin tour for the next day as offices were still open. It was great!
Buses between Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales take 3hrs. From Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales they leave practically every hour so I imagine it’s pretty much the same coming the other way. My bus cost CLP 7900 (£10ish). Check Busbud for times, prices and companies.
By plane
There is an airport which has frequent flights daily from Santiago.
Where next?
So I’ve seen penguins in Patagonia – I’m happy!! If you’re spending some time in Punta Arenas, I really recommend going to see the penguins!
I’m now heading to Puerto Natales to visit Torres del Paine. I haven’t got the W trek or any tours booked yet so I need to come up with a plan! Renting a car and driving around the park is potentially on the cards provided it’s not too pricey. Me and driving have always had a slight confidence issue so we’ll see if I pluck up the courage!
