La Paz is Bolivia’s administrative capital (aka where the seat of government is) and is the highest one in the world. You could say La Paz is a bit like marmite – you either like it or you don’t.
If you’re planning on going to Bolivia, you’ll most likely find yourself in La Paz at least once or perhaps several times during your trip simply because it’s a great transport hub to other Bolivian destinations.
We ended up in La Paz three times and used it predominantly as a base for doing other activities and going other places: climbing Huayna Potosí, biking Death Road, going to the Amazon and the Uyuni salt flats.
You could say that we didn’t connect with La Paz so much because we didn’t put so much energy into exploring it. To me it was another huge city and most of the time we were there, we were tired and exhausted from a trip we’d just done.
Anyhow, that doesn’t mean we didn’t explore La Paz. Read on for 8 things to do, in no particular order, when in La Paz.
8 Things to do in La Paz
#1 Do a walking tour
Walking tours are the best way to get a feel for the city and get your bearings. We did the Red Caps walking tour which leaves daily from San Pedro Plaza at 11am or 2pm. Whilst it’s not free, it’s still only a small amount to join it.
Our tour started outside the infamous and notorious San Pedro prison in La Paz’s city centre. I’m not sure how much our guides told us was strictly the truth, but either way it’s undeniable that San Pedro has a coloured and chequered story and that life inside is one of a kind.
The rest of the tour covers La Paz’s main squares and markets and touches on Bolivia’s history and politics.
#2 Walk down Calle Jaen
Calle Jaen is one of the last remaining colonial streets left in La Paz. Walking down the cobbled and colourful Calle Jaen does feel like stepping back in time. It’s home to several museums and a few art shops and cafes.
We only came across it on our second stop in La Paz. It’s about a 10 minute walk from Plaza San Francisco and the easiest way to find it is to using MapsMe.
#3 Plaza Murillo and Plaza San Francisco
Plaza San Francisco is home to San Francisco church, close to several markets and next to the popular Calle Sagarnaga. It is a great spot for people watching as there is normally some sort of street entertainment or event happening. When we were there, there was a dance competition and food event taking place.
Surrounded by government buildings, Plaza Murillo is La Paz’s politically most important square. Historically, it’s been the scene for many violent political uprisings and battles. It’s a great place to watch the runnings of daily life. The plaza is also home to hundreds of pigeons so if you’re not a fan you might prefer not to hang around.
You’ll visit both of these plazas on a walking tour.
#4 Hop on a cable car
Mi Telerifico is a cable car network that forms a part of La Paz’s public transport system. It connects the higher and more remote El Alto with La Paz centre.
The cable cars are a tourist attraction in their own right. There are currently three lines: red, yellow and green and you can hop on any for bird’s-eye views over La Paz and to truly grasp just how big a city La Paz is.
#5 Visit the witches’ market (El mercado de las brujas)
The witches’ market is a unique market in La Paz, mainly because of the goods it sells. If you’re looking for herbal remedies, spells, potions and spiritual advice, then you’ve come to the right place.
The most peculiar item you’ll see on sale are dried llama fetuses, hanging in the stall windows. They are traditionally given as an offering to Pachamama (Mother Earth) and buried under the foundations of new homes for good luck, happiness and protection.
#6 Eat a papa relleno
You might be wondering what a papa relleno is? It’s a ball of mashed potato stuffed with various fillings: meat, cheese, rice etc. You can buy them in cafes, in the streets and in markets. Head to Mercado Lanza for the best ones – the one we had there was so yummy and made me nostalgic for home, tasting so similar to shepherd’s pie.
#7 Go to Cafe del Mundo
Cafe del Mundo quickly became our frequent hang-out in La Paz. It’s a stylish Swedish owned cafe with a travel theme. Each room is dedicated to a different continent and inspirational travel quotes are dotted around on the tables and walls. I really loved the vibe and atmosphere.
Food wise, it serves a variety of international dishes and was the perfect place to go when we were craving a bit of home food. The smoothies, pancakes and pasta dishes were all fantastic and reasonably priced.
The Wifi was great and you could easily spend the afternoon there planning the next leg of your trip!
Address: Calle Sagarnaga 324
Treated myself to these after our Huayna Potosí climb
#8 Bike Death Road
Have you considered biking the world’s most dangerous road? Up there as one of Bolivia’s most popular activities, La Paz is the perfect base for biking Death Road. Tour companies, such as Barracuda Biking and Gravity, will arrange the whole day from transport and lunch to bikes and equipment.
More ideas
We didn’t have time to do everything, here are five more ideas for things to do in and around La Paz.
Kili Kili Mirador
Head to Kili Kili Mirador for sweeping panoramic views over La Paz. You can walk to Kili Kili Mirador; however, given the altitude and the uphill climb, taking the bus or taxi is definitely the easier option.
Valle de la luna (Moon Valley)
Located 10km for downtown La Paz, Valle de la Luna is an area of bizarrely shaped and lunar-like natural rock formations. You can explore the lunar-like landscapes on the two walking trails. Entry costs Bs 15. To get there you can either go with a tour or take a bus or taxi.
Palca Canyon
30km southeast of La Paz lies Palca Canyon, an 8km long canyon full of interestingly shaped rock formations. It is a great destination if you’re looking for a break from the busy city. You can sign up to a day tour or hop on a colectivo to do it yourself.
Tiwanaku Archaeological Site
A UNESCO world heritage site, Tiwanaku is an ancient archaeological site that used to be home to a civilisation older than the Incas. Visiting with a guide is recommended so you can get a good understanding of the history, culture and buildings of Tiwanaku.
Cholita wrestling
Cholita wrestling could definitely win the award for La Paz’s most unusual attraction – picture Bolivian women in traditional dress wrestling. It’s bizarre and crazy and you can watch it every Thursday and Sunday in El Alto.
Have you been to La Paz? Did you like it?
