If you’re going to Arequipa, you can’t miss out the Colca Canyon. Despite being the second deepest canyon in the world, the Colca Canyon never quite makes it to the top of must-do lists or bucket lists. It is often brushed over and remains in the shadow of Peru’s famous treks to Machu Picchu.
Having done the two day trek, I can’t recommend the Colca Canyon enough. It was a fabulous experience of swooping condors, stunning scenery and to top it off a wonderful physical achievement.
There are a handful of other options available: three day treks, four day ones, guided or unguided etc. For those who lack time or don’t fancy the walking, Colca Canyon tours leave Arequipa daily.
Colca Canyon Trek – Day One
Like many trekking experiences in Peru and South America, there is an early start. Pick up is from 3am (can be earlier or later) and the drive from Arequipa is 3hrs. Try and sleep in the minivan, you’ve got a long day of walking ahead of you! On entering the canyon area, you might be required to pay an entrance fee (s/70). Whether you pay it depends on your tour; ours was included in our tour price.
Following breakfast at Chivay, you will head to the condor viewing point, Cruz del Condor Mirador.
It will be busy as most buses arrive at the same time. Although it’s a touristy stop, it’s a great spot to watch condors circling and drifting on the thermals.
Searching the skies for condors
After a short stop to watch condors gliding on air currents, it’s time to head to the trek start point.
Totalling 18km, the aim of Day 1 was to reach the bottom of the canyon. We started our descent at 10am. It was hot and sweaty walking so make sure you drink plenty of water. Everyone walks at their own pace so we paused and regrouped at the bridge at the bottom.
After crossing the river, there is a short steady incline up the other side of the canyon to lunch. Lasting an hour, lunch was traditional Peruvian dishes of quinoa soup and yummy alpaca. The second half of walking that day was a mixture of uphill to join the main path, flat and another descent into the oasis valley where you spend the night at one of the lodges.
By this point the temperatures were much more pleasant and, with the sun getting lower in the sky, the rocks were bathed in a beautiful golden light. It was such a gorgeous time to walk.
Late afternoon sun bathing the walls of the canyon in a golden glow.
We arrived at our hostel in the dark at around 6pm. I reckon most groups arrive earlier in daylight and have a chance to swim in the pool. However, half our party had taken a wrong turn earlier in the day which delayed lunch and the rest of the walking.
Rooms were basic and did the job. I was happy I’d packed my sleep liner and bug spray. The lack of a lightbulb made the cold shower an entertaining experience. Thank god for phone torches. That said, no light was also a positive as it did prevent me from noticing bugs as well as not attracting them. Even though I couldn’t see them, I still had my overactive imagination to contend with!
My wow moment was stepping outside our room and looking up to see thousands of stars twinkling in the night sky. Simply magical. It’s an early start the next morning (when isn’t it?!) so get a good night’s sleep.
Colca Canyon Trek – Day Two
We started our ascent at 5am and it was estimated to take 3 hours. You may then be wondering why so early?! Well, it seems it’s all about racing the sun. The aim is to reach the top before the sun has fully risen so the zig-zagging hike can happen in the shade. It makes complete sense. I was already hot and sweaty enough in the shade; climbing the path in full sunshine would have been unbearable.
It was a repetitive and steep zig zag climb up the side of the canyon. The views were amazing. On the climb up, you do share the path with donkeys carrying supplies. You can also rent a donkey (which a few members of our group did) at the bottom as a back-up, if the climb and altitude increase is too challenging.
I reached the top at 8am and it felt amazing! We’d successfully climbed Colca Canyon: the world’s second deepest canyon and twice as deep as America’s Grand Canyon!
The rest of the day was nice and relaxing. After eggs for breakfast in Cabanaconde, we had a meet and greet session with some llamas and alpacas (differentiating between continues to be a struggle) and a wonderful soak in some hot springs (s/10) for our aching and tired legs. Pure bliss!
Meet and greet with llamas and alpacas. Is this an alpaca? Thoughts?
On the drive back to Arequipa, we stopped multiple times for some fabulous views of the Colca Canyon valley, volcanoes and herds of vicuñas.
The return journey will also be remembered for having the first body plumbing issues of the trip so far. Of course it had to happen at the final stop of the day at the highest altitude. Thank goodness for Imodium! We got back to Arequipa at around 6pm.
Final thoughts on Colca Canyon
I really really recommend visiting the Colca Canyon. It’s one of my top highlights from Peru. As mentioned earlier, there are lots of ways of seeing it – from hiking it to doing a day tour. I really really recommend trekking the canyon. Personally, it was a more fulfilling, fun, active and memorable experience, and the only way to truly be in it. You don’t need to be super fit, but it helps to acclimatise properly and take it slowly. There are also donkeys on hand to help you out.
Trekking Colca Canyon is often suggested to do as practice and preparation for the treks to Machu Picchu. Colca Canyon was our first trek of the trip and it paid off in numerous ways: helping with adjusting to altitude, long walking days, what to pack, snacks are important! etc…
Have you been to the Colca Canyon? How did you experience it?
